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Bo 'n' Louise

A blog about one of our trips

The unprepared round-the-world tour starting 29th of June 2009.
First phase was from USA to South America on motorcycles. We made it, and the bikes are sold.
Second phase was the South Pacific... from island to island in old fashion backpacker style.
Third phase was around and around in Southeast Asia.
In fourth phase Louise went back to Denmark (August 2010) for work, while Bo continued in East Asia.
In fifth phase we were both on work, Louise in South America and Bo in Southeast Asia.
In the sixth phase Louise was in Denmark while Bo was making his way home through Russia.
By November 2010 both Louise and Bo were back in Denmark and an amazing journey has ended - but then there is always the next trip :-)

Christians and monkeys

Belize Posted on Sun, August 16, 2009 20:11:20

So there we were in the middle of the Belizean jungle with a bike that wouldn’t start. We tried to run it, jump start it, ignored and hope it would fix itself… but no. So off I went (on Louise’s bike) to a small Mennonite settlement, Spanish Lookout (yes, that is the name of the settlement) searching for a new battery. Mennonites….hmmm, you might wonder who they are. We are talking pale white christian settlers, who speak some kind of platdeutsch and are dressed like “The little house on the prairie” with long beards (mostly the men though). At first sight they can be quite scary, but at second encounter they are some of the nicest people… though a bit reserved. Nevertheless it is very weird to stand in the jungle overdressed in way too hot motorcycle gear chatting to an Amish-looking fellow while his 40 children was playing in the river. Well, so I didn’t expect too much of Spanish Lookout…. but was I wrong, for these were modern Mennonites. Never have I seen such well-equipped tractor shops with more order than a military camp… but hey, they do have German genes. Any way, got my battery fixed and went back to the jungle.

A modern Mennonite without the beard

Next day Louise and I sat out for a hidden Maya ruin in borderland to Guatemala. Locals/expats had warned us that part of the road was haunted by bandits… none was were specific about what and when something have happened. The good thing though was the Belize military offered free armed escort into the ruins once a day… something we of coursed missed by hours, since my bike acted girly again (a broken wire from the battery fix). Maybe I should also mentioned that the road to the ruins is a best horrendous. Mud, sand, gravel, water, potholes, rocks, boulders… everything except a smooth ride. Louise certainly got a lesson in off road riding (and she is doing amazing). So the next day we tried again and we actually managed it. Saw the Maya temples, didn’t get robbed nor crashed and Louise got bitten by a howler monkey puppy (she is a vet and obviously need to put her fingers in animal orifices). All together a great day in the jungle.

Louise cruising through the pine forest

Apparently the pyramid we are sitting on is still the higest building in Belize


More pictures on http://www.globespots.com.



Manatees and Jungle boogie

Belize Posted on Sun, August 16, 2009 19:25:22

First we took a trip to Gayles Point –
down an unpaved road and it had rained a bit – so the trip itself
was some experience… when we were trying to find the camp-ground
that was supposed to be there some guy let us to this place where we
could camp. It was horrible – trash al around, dirty filthy kitchen
we could cook some water in and to get to the toilet we had to climb
a few old couches. Yiekes! Going to sleep however – was when the
real nightmare started; on top of being about 36 degrees celcius some
billion biting insects were really into us and started an all night
party… Auuch…

The lovely lads who had the “campground” and the boat respectively

After such a lovely night we took a
small boat-trip out to try and spot Manatees – sea-cows.. Sitting
there in the boat trying to spot the grey heads of these creatures I
got to think of the times we sat looking for seals when we were
sailing in Denmark when I was a kid.. Not much to see but interesting
just the same.

Looking and looking – and we even saw a few sea-cow-heads..

Another little beach town on the way to the jungle; Hopkins. Nothing much went on here – and that was just the charm of it..

Going from the beach to the jungle I
faced the next road/riding challenge.. turning of the highway a guy
told us that the road was pretty bad.. however it was a little bit
worse than that! Lots of practice for a novice like me driving up and
down this not dirt road but stone road – at least that was more
steady ground than the muddy sand on the other road.. however on the
last part of the road coming down towards a river it got a little
darker and then is was just too much for me.. and Bo had to take my
bike down the last 3 bends before the road evened out and was more
ridable. We finally found the place we wanted to stay and I got a
well deserved beer!

Going through the jungle – it’s rough riding!

Here we really feel that it is indeed
the rainy season – the rain started the next morning and all day
there was a crazy downpour of hard tropical rain every 15-20 min. So
we spendt the afternoon playing poker with the other people staying
here.. That is, when we werent trying to start one of the bikes that
had worked as a light when we set up camp at night – after a couple
of attempts the battery was completely dead. Trying to run and start
was not entirely succesful – and trying to jump-start from the
other bike and from the owners truck – still no luck… So we had one
more challenge there…

Whining over how immensely popular my elbows seems to be..



Diving the second biggest reef in the world

Belize Posted on Sun, August 16, 2009 19:11:57

Saying goodbye to Anne also meant we
had to find out what to do next.. Reading a bit about Belize in the
guidebook we discovered that the second biggest reef if right here
(surpassed only by the Great Barrier Reef, Australia) – and who
would we be to miss the oportunity to dive here..

So we found a backyard to hide the
bikes in at a guesthouse where we could also dump our stuff and
jumped on a speedboat for a ride to Caye Caulker and the very
laid-back atmosphere of this tranquil caribian island (or caye –
can’t really get someone to tell us the differens)…

Dive shop on poles in Caye Caulker

Laid back atmosphere at Caye Caulker

Next morning we were on yet another
speedboat to ”the Blue Hole” a sink-hole that was once a dry cave
but is now under water. 40 meters down this 120 m deep hole we saw
the stalagtites once formed in the roof of the cave. While enjoying
the absurd constellation of swimming among the giant stalagtites and
the onset of nitrogen narcosis a bunch of grey caribean reef sharks
came by – just checking us out. Gracious creatures appearing out of
the deep blue center of the 300 m diameter hole and disappearing just
as quickly – almost like fatamorganas.. Fantastic!! Two more dives
were included in the day programme – none to write home about –
the visibility was not fantastic and corals are not abundant enough
to keep you entertained (the occacional hurricanes have taken their
towes on the reefs, throwing bits and pieces all around)

Enjoying life in my pink wetsuit..

However we
did get to see the speciel Redfooted Boobie (and we are talking about
a bird – real one – avian species) – a Fregate bird that
apparently only nests on a little island. Fortunately they were not
shy and we got to see plenty of birds of all ages – red legs and
all.

Unfortunatly you can’t see the beautiful red legs 😉



Anne as guest blogger

Belize Posted on Sun, August 16, 2009 19:01:10

WHAT A RIDE!

Man, it was nothing less
than fantastic being taken for a ride though Central America by the
gorgeous biker chic Louise and the tough biker dude Bo. A big
experience that will be remembered for a very long time.

I met with them in Puebla
– a small town east of Mexico City – and from there we drove on.
Every day a new place and new things to see – a bombardement of
impressions. We saw everything in 10 days – jungle, pyramids, snakes,
caribic beaches, humming birds, coconut palms, waterfalls and
toothless rastafaris. We lived in all kinds of places – love motels,
pink hotels, jungle hippie huts, taiwan hostels and beach bum huts.
It was amazing. A lot of things was new to me and not to Louise and
Bo and I just felt like being fed with all the best you can get in
Mexico due to their experience and know how. It wouldn’t have been
the same with someone else.

I didn’t know how I would
feel about sitting in the backseat of a motorbike. But I kind of
fitted in very fast and had complete trust in Bo, who sat in front,
and drove like he has never done anything else before in his life. I
actually liked it, though 35 degrees in a thick black polyester/nylon
space suit, being forced to smell your own sweaty body all the time,
seems close to suicide and pretty masochistic to like. Maybe it was
because all the experiences and the beautiful places we saw just took
up more space than being uncomfortable and exhausted did. So we kept
up a good spirit and had fun most of the time.

Some
might say we did it too fast, and there sure were some places that I
wouldn’t mind staying in for a week or more. But on the other hand I
wanted to see as much as possible of Central America and had only two
weeks. Luckily Louise and Bo felt the same way. A good vacation has
to be hard, Bo said and I know Louise needs just as much action as I
do. Another thing were that they were forced to do it that way by a
very tight schedule. Suddenly in the jungle bar they figured out that
they only had four days in each country if Louise should be making it
to Bolivia in October. Impressively they didn’t freak out, but just
started thinking a little more creatively – maybe it was the beer 🙂

I left them in Belize
City – had to take a bus to Guatamala City to catch my plane home. On
the station a rastaman said “Eeeey womaaan, where are you going?
You look sad!” And he was right. I didn’t want to go home, I
didn’t want to leave Bo and Louise and then I shed a little discreet
tear.

I miss you! I hope you’re
doing all right, taking care of each other and having fun.

By the way Louise, I
finally had a good cup of coffee – or actually several – in Antigua,
so I hope you’re going there. On top of that it’s also a very pretty
and peaceful place.

Anne

Anne on the road with us in Mexico and Belize



Ya man

Belize Posted on Thu, August 06, 2009 10:53:02

Seeking shelter for the tropical rain

We have crossed another border, this time to Belize (yes, it’s a country). The last days in Mexico was spend traversing the southern part from Palenque in Chiapas to Tulum on the Yucatan peninsula while Maya ruins were visit. At a small eatery along the main road a couple of gold teeth truckers were unintentional entertained by Anne illustrating how big the silicon tits are on some users of the danish gym fitness.dk. Anyway, at the border we went through the process of exporting the bikes from Mexico for then importing them into Belize. Everything was very civilized and went smoothly, even the dodgy money changing through fence. And then we were in Belize… and man, it’s different. It is more Caribbean than Central American with dark skinned people with dreadlocks, sunglasses and Jamaica accent (ya man, they speak English). Everyone is lay back, but God damn they are some cookie weirdos. The first night I got welcomed by two drunk Rastafaries who blessed our trip and asked to borrow two Belize dollar. Next day another toothless Rastafari with Bob Marley beard came up to us, while we were baking in the sun with all our riding gear on looking for a hotel. “Ya look like a ninja, ya could get ya’r face shoot off” which tur out to be a friendly warning to take care. “Ya, zanks man!”. Here in Belize City, which do have bad reputation, top dodgy rasta guys have come up an warned us about the creeps in the streets, not knowing they were the most creepy person in sight. Everybody seems so ridiculously friendly… though with attitude. But we followed the good advices and withdrew to our guesthouse behind barbwire before it got too late. We are planing to explore the country for the next week or two for it seems pretty bloody fantastic… if we can afford it for it’s expensive here.

Not-as-dodgy-as-it-looks money changing at the border

Trying to park at the guesthouse

Anne is leaving us tomorrow. She taking the bus through Guatemala and then the plane back to Denmark. Thanks for great company and for being an excellent motorcycle passenger.

Our only rainy day in Mexico